Page 77 - Shawl Weaving Artisan - TT

Textile & Handloom Related Theory for Exercise 1.5.39
Shawl Weaving Artisan - Weaving and Designing

Weaving of fabrics, its principle processes

Objectives: At the end of this lesson you shall be able to
• explain the basic steps in weaving
• explain primary, secondary and axillary motions.

Basic weaving mechanism The conversion of warp sheet into fabrics by interlacing
with weft yarn requires the basic mechanism to be carried
Weaving is the art and science of creating fabric by out on loom in a specific order. In order to interlace
interlacing two sets of yarns the warp and the weft at right these yarns, basic weaving mechanism involves primary
angles. This method has been practiced for thousands of motions, secondary motions and stop motions. The
years and remains a cornerstone of the textile industry. primary motion includes shedding, picking, and beat-
The process involves several key steps, each essential up, whereas the secondary motions are warp let-off and
for turning individual threads into a cohesive, durable cloth take-up.
fabric.
1 Primary motions (Fig 1)
The fundamental processes of weaving
1 Warping: The process of arranging yarns in parallel The motions that are compulsory for weaving process
are called primary motions. Weaving will not happen if
to form the warp.
any of these motions are not completed. These motions
• Preparation: Yarns are carefully aligned and include shedding, picking, and beat-up. The primary
wound onto a warp beam, ensuring they remain weaving motions are shown in Fig 1.
straight and under consistent tension.
• Shedding: It is a process by which warp sheet is
• Importance: A well-prepared warp is vital as it divided into two which will facilitate the passage
forms the backbone of the fabric, determining its of weft yarn from one end to another end.
overall strength and uniformity.
• Picking: It is a process of transferring the weft
2 Sizing: The application of a protective finish to the yarn (pick) into the shed from one side of the loom
warp threads. to another end. In case of shuttle loom picking is
• Process: A sizing agent (such as starch or a done from both sides of the loom. In case of shuttle
synthetic compound) is applied to strengthen the less loom picking is carried out only from one side
yarns and reduce friction during weaving. of the loom.
• Outcome: This step minimizes breakage and • Beat up: It is a process of pushing the newly
maintains the integrity of the fragile yarns inserted pick back into the cloth fell by using reed.
throughout the weaving process.

Fig 1

2 Secondary motions (Fig 2): The weaving motions • Let-off motion: This is also known as Warp
required to make the weaving process continuous Control motion. This motion delivers the warp yarn
are called secondary motions. Secondary Motions to weaving zone at a constant rate at controlled
are classified into: tension. Let off is done from Weavers beam.
• Take-up motion: It is a process of winding up the
woven fabric in roll form at constant rate and which
will give required pick spacing.

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